This bear with a honeypot stands approximately 9 inches tall and is suitable for all crocheters. I hope you enjoy this pattern, and if you post pictures, please hashtag #laurajaworski & tag me @bugburrypond so I can see & share your creations.
You can find all of my free crochet patterns here.
Happy crocheting!
Skill Level: Easy
Size:
This bear is approximately 9 inches tall in a sitting position and approximately 12 inches tall in a standing position.
Supplies:
Worsted weight yarn (brown, green, beige, white, black, yellow, blue)
Light weight yarn or crochet thread (optional, black)
4.0 mm hook
Safety eyes (10mm & 3mm, or to your preference)
Needle for sewing
Polyester or other stuffing
Stitch marker, safety pin, or small piece of yarn to count rounds
Scissors
Straight pins
Abbreviations:
MC = Magic circle (see pattern notes)
St = Stitch
Ch = Chain
Sc = Single crochet stitch
Hdc = Half double crochet stitch
DC = Double crochet stitch
Puff = Puff stitch (see pattern notes)
Ss = Slip stitch
Rep = Repeat
2tog = Crochet two together, also known as decrease (invisible decrease preferred)
FLO = Front loop only
BLO = Back loop only
Ch1 = Chain one
F/o = Finish off
A note about the magic circle:
Also known as a magic loop or magic ring. If you prefer not to use a magic circle, simply create a slip knot, chain two, and begin by placing your first round of stitches into the first chain. Pull tightly on your tail to close the gap and continue with the pattern as written. Once you have worked a few more rounds, weave your yarn tail back and forth on the underside to secure your piece and close any remaining gap.
A note about working in a spiral:
This bear is worked in a spiral which means that each round continues into the next without a slip stitch and chain.
A note about counting stitches:
Using a stitch marker, safety pin, or small piece of yarn to mark the first stitch of each round will help you track your progress. Move the marker as you complete each round.
A note about FLO & BLO:
For the front loop only round, you will work all of your stitches into the front loop of each stitch. For the back loop only round, you will work all of your stitches into the back loop of each stitch. For all other rounds, work into both loops of each stitch.
A note about increasing and decreasing:
For an increase, crochet two stitches in the same stitch. For a decrease, crochet two stitches together, preferably using the invisible decrease method.
A note about reading the pattern:
Before beginning a pattern, it helps to read through the abbreviations list. If you need help with a technique, refer to a written or video tutorial, or keep a crochet book handy. Below is a round from the pattern, followed by a detailed description of the instructions.
Rnd 4: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)
Beginning round four, add one single crochet into each of the next two stitches. Add two single crochet stitches in the following stitch. Repeat the pattern of one single crochet in each of the next two stitches followed by an increase until you reach the end of round four. There should be 24 stitches in your completed round.
A note about the puff stitch:
To crochet the puff stitch for this pattern, yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch space, yarn over, pull up a loop, *yarn over, insert hook in same stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop* two more times (7 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all loops on hook. Complete each puff stitch with a chain one.
A note about the invisible finish technique:
For the invisible finish technique, complete the last stitch of your pattern. Snip your yarn, leaving a tail long enough for sewing. Pull the loop on your hook, drawing the snipped yarn tail free. Next, thread the yarn tail onto your needle and bring it through both loops of the stitch following the next stitch. Bring your yarn tail through the back loop of the last stitch of your final round, pulling until you’ve created a v that is comparable in size to the rest of your stitches. Weave your yarn tail on the backside of your piece to secure.
Now let’s get started!
Bear’s Head & Body (beginning at the top, with brown yarn):
Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Rnd 3: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)
Rnd 4: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)
Rnd 5: 3sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (30)
Rnd 6: 4sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (36)
Rnd 7: 5sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (42)
Rnd 8: 6sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (48)
Rnd 9: 7sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (54)
Rnd 10-17: 1sc in each st (54)
Add your safety eyes between rounds 12 & 13 with 8 stitches between.
Rnd 18: 7sc then 2tog, rep (48)
Rnd 19: 6sc then 2tog, rep (42)
Rnd 20: 5sc then 2tog, rep (36)
Rnd 21: 4sc then 2tog, rep (30)
Begin stuffing the head; you can continue stuffing as you go.
Rnd 22: 3sc then 2tog, rep (24)
Switch to green yarn. You can change yarn colors as many times as you like from rnd 23 to rnd 36 to create stripes & customize your bear’s sweater.
Rnd 23: 3sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (30)
Rnd 24: 1sc in each st (30)
Rnd 25: 4sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (36)
Rnd 26: 1sc in each st (36)
Rnd 27: 5sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (42)
Rnd 28: 1sc in each st (42)
Rnd 29: 6sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (48)
Rnd 30: 1sc in each st (48)
Rnd 31: 7sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (54)
Rnd 32-35: 1sc in each st (54)
Rnd 36: FLO sc in each st (54)
Snip your yarn & f/o using the invisible finish technique.
Switch to brown yarn.
Rnd 37: BLO working into rnd 35, attach your yarn to the first st with a ch1 and sc in the same st, 1sc in each remaining st (54)
Rnd 38-40: 1sc in each st (54)
Rnd 41: 7sc then 2tog, rep (48)
Rnd 42: 1sc in each st (48)
Begin stuffing the body; you can continue stuffing as you close.
Rnd 43: 6sc then 2tog, rep (42)
Rnd 44: 5sc then 2tog, rep (36)
Rnd 45: 4sc then 2tog, rep (30)
Rnd 46: 3sc then 2tog, rep (24)
Rnd 47: 2sc then 2tog, rep (18)
Rnd 48: 1sc then 2tog, rep (12)
Rnd 49: 2tog x 6 (6)
Snip your yarn. Pull your yarn tail free, then weave your yarn tail through the front loops of the six remaining stitches and pull to close. Weave your yarn back and forth or knot to secure and hide the yarn tail inside the body.
Bear’s Ears (with brown yarn, make two):
Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Rnd 3: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)
Rnd 4: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)
Rnd 5-6: 1sc in each st (24)
Rnd 7: 2sc then 2tog, rep (18)
F/o using the invisible finish technique; leave a long tail for sewing.
Bear’s Snout (with beige yarn):
Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Rnd 3: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)
Rnd 4: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)
Rnd 5-6: 1sc in each st (24)
F/o using the invisible finish technique; leave a long tail for sewing.
Embroidering the nose (see photos):
To embroider the nose, thread a long strand of black yarn onto your needle. Beginning at the back of the snout, bring your yarn through to the front, between rounds 1 & 2; this will be the bottom of your nose. Next, bring your yarn up between rounds 3 & 4, and to the back of the snout. Continue looping through your initial bottom point and fanning your stitches out in the shape of a triangular nose. Once you’ve filled out the nose nicely, add two or three stitches along the top of the nose to complete the shape.
If you would like to add more detail, bring your yarn to the front a length below the nose, then up through the same stitch at the bottom of the nose. You can also add a half or full smile. Once you’ve completed your nose & mouth, weave your yarn back and forth to secure or knot the yarn loosely in the back of the snout, making sure not to warp the shape of your crochet.
You can get creative with the nose and make it bigger, smaller, or shape it differently. You can also use felt, a button, a crocheted piece, or a safety nose.
Bear’s Eyelids (optional, with brown yarn, make two):
Ch5, working into the back bumps of the chain: ss in the the 2nd ch from hook, 2hdc, ss.
F/o, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Alternatively, use black or brown yarn or crochet thread to create eyelids or eyebrows.
Click here for The Pumpkin Cottage Free Crochet pattern.
Bear’s Hand & Arm (beginning with brown yarn, make two):
Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Rnd 3: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)
Rnd 4-6: 1sc in each st (18)
Rnd 7: 1sc then 2tog, rep (12)
Switch to green yarn.
Begin stuffing your hand; you can continue stuffing as you go. Stuff the arm lightly.
Rnd 8-18: 1sc in each st (12)
Snip your yarn & f/o; leave a long tail for sewing.
Bear’s Sleeve Cuff (optional, with green yarn, make two):
Ch12 & f/o leaving a tail long enough for sewing. You can add or subtract chains as needed.
Bear’s Foot & Leg (with brown yarn, make two):
The foot can be made in one solid color or with a lighter color for the footpad. If you would like to make a footpad, begin with beige yarn (or whatever color you choose), crochet up to round 4, then switch to brown. Continue with brown for the rest of the foot & leg. For a cleaner look, snip your yarn & f/o using the invisible finish technique at the end of round 4. Begin round 5 by attaching your brown yarn to the first stitch with a ch1, place your first sc in the same stitch, then continue with the pattern as written.
Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Rnd 3: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)
Rnd 4: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)
Rnd 5: 3sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (30)
Rnd 6-7: 1sc in each st (30)
Rnd 8: 2tog x 4, sc to end of round (26)
Rnd 9: 2tog x 2, sc to end of round (24)
Rnd 10: 2sc then 2tog, rep (18)
Stuff the foot, shaping the heel and toes so they’re nicely rounded. Lightly stuff the leg as you crochet rounds 11-17. You may want to leave the last round or two unstuffed, depending on how you plan to attach the legs (see instructions below). If you plan to attach the legs on the side of your bear in a standing position, you may want to add an additional round or two of sc, for a total of 18+ rounds.
Rnd 11-17: 1sc in each st (18)
Snip your yarn & f/o; leave a long tail for sewing.
Putting it all together
Attaching the sleeve cuffs:
Wrap your chained piece around the hand/arm between rounds 7 & 8 so the color change is covered. Tie the yarn tails at the back, then stitch the cuff down around the arm using one of the tails. Weave the tails in the back of the arm to secure.
Attaching the legs:
The legs can be attached in several directions. You can position the legs so your bear is in a sitting position (with the legs facing forward or outward), or you can attach them on the bottom or the side of the body in a standing position. You can also choose whether to flatten the top of the leg by pressing the last round together before attaching to the body, or you can stitch the legs to the body with the rounded leg shape.
To attach the legs in a sitting position, line the legs up so they’re flush with the bear’s bottom on a flat surface; this should be around round 45 (see photos). When you’re happy with how the legs look, pin them into place and sew the legs to the body. Finally, bring both yarn tails out of the same stitch on the bottom of the bear, tie the tails together, & hide them in the body.
To attach the legs in a standing position, pin both legs to the bottom or the side of the body. Sew the legs to the body then bring both yarn tails out of the same stitch, tie the tails together, & hide them in the body.
See The Frog of Bugburry Pond, Frog Free Crochet Pattern for more how-to pics on attaching the legs + examples of standing positions.
Attaching the arms:
The arms can be attached in several directions (see photos). To begin, position the top of the arms with the top of round 25, one arm on each side of the body. From here you can decide if you’d like the arms facing downward, angled, or reaching up & out. Position slightly backward for a shorter arm or slightly forward for a longer arm. Note: positioning up & out will allow you to attach items between the hands.
Once you’ve decided on the position, pin both arms into place. Using your green yarn tails, stitch the arms to the body, making sure the stitches are secured all the way around. Once the arms are nicely attached, bring both yarn tails out of the same stitch on the back of the body, knot the tails & hide them in the body.
Attaching the ears (see photos):
To attach the ears, press them flat then pin each ear to the top center of your bear’s head, starting at round 5. Once you have them positioned, stitch the ears into place, then bring both yarn tails out of the same stitch on the back of the head, tie the tails together, & hide them in the head.
Attaching the snout (see photos):
Stuff the embroidered snout lightly then pin it into place so that the top is between rounds 11 & 12, between the eyes. Next, stitch the snout into place, then bring your yarn tail out of a stitch on the back of the head. Weave your yarn tail back and forth a few times through the stitch holes to secure. You can also leave a single yarn tail free (left over from the ears or eyebrows) to tie a knot with, then hide the yarn tail inside the head. Alternatively, you can create a small knot at the bottom of your snout before hiding the yarn tail.
Attaching the eyebrows (see photos):
To add your eyebrows, pin them into place over the eyes. I like to add them to the side so the bear has a happy look; you can play around with the position to see what you like. Once you have the eyebrows in place, add a few stitches in and out of each piece to secure, then bring your yarn tails out of a stitch on the back of the head, tie the tails together, & hide them in the head. Alternatively, carefully hot glue the eyebrows to the bear.
Click here to download the free PDF for this teddy bear.
Honeypot (with blue yarn):
Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Rnd 3: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)
Rnd 4: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)
Rnd 5: 3sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (30)
Rnd 6: 4sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (36)
Rnd 7-13: 1sc in each st (36)
Rnd 14: 4sc then 2tog, rep (30)
Rnd 15: FLO 1sc in each st (30)
Snip your yarn & f/o using the invisible finish technique; you should have 30 workable BL stitches in rnd 14.
Honeypot Lid (with white yarn):
Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)
Rnd 2-3: 1sc in each st (6)
Snip your yarn & f/o using the invisible finish technique. Note: you can go straight from round 3 to 4 (skipping the ch1 in rnd 4) without snipping your yarn if you prefer, just keep in mind it will create a slight color dip in your work.
Switch to blue yarn.
Rnd 4: FLO working into the front loop of each st of rnd 3, attach your yarn to the first st with a ch1 and 2sc in the same st, 2sc in each remaining st (12)
Rnd 5: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)
Rnd 6: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)
Rnd 7: 1sc in each st (24)
Rnd 8: 3sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (30)
Rnd 9-10: 1sc in each st (30)
Rnd 11: FLO *4sc, puff (see pattern notes)* to end of round (30)
Snip your yarn & f/o using the invisible finish technique. Finger block your lid so all of the puff stitches are facing outward.
Honey (with yellow yarn):
Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Rnd 3: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)
Rnd 4: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)
Rnd 5: 3sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (30)
Snip your yarn & f/o using the invisible finish technique; leave a long tail for sewing.
Honey Drip (optional, with yellow yarn):
Ch8, working into the back bumps of the ch: sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2sc, hdc, 3dc (7)
Snip your yarn & f/o using the invisible finish technique; leave a long tail for sewing.
Putting It All Together
Attaching the honey & stuffing the pot (see photos):
Begin by lining the honey up with rnd 14 of your pot; you should have 30 workable stitches on both pieces. Next, thread your yellow yarn tail onto your needle and begin whip stitching the two pieces together, making sure to sew through both loops of round 5 for the honey, and the back loop only of round 14 for the pot. When you have worked halfway around, begin stuffing the pot; you can continue stuffing as you go. Continue sewing and stuffing. When you’ve sewed all the way around, weave your yarn tail neatly under the edges of the honey, or back and forth through the stitch holes of your pot to secure, making sure not to warp the shape of your crochet.
Attaching the honey drip (see photos):
Position your honey drip over and around the rim of your pot & pin it into place. Using your yellow yarn tail, sew the honey drip to the pot, then bring both yarn tails out of a stitch hole on the bottom of the pot, tie the tails together, and hide them in the pot. Alternatively, use hot glue to carefully secure the honey drip to the pot.
Attaching the lid (optional, see photos):
Stuff the lid lightly then pin it into place at an angle on top of your pot. Using your blue yarn tail, sew the lid to the pot, then weave the yarn tail in & out of the stitch holes to secure, making sure not to warp the shape of your crochet. You can leave a yarn tail from the honey or honey drip free to knot your lid tail with if you like. Alternatively, use hot glue to carefully secure the lid to the pot.
Gently finger block your honeypot into shape.
Click here to download the free PDF for this honeypot.
Bee (beginning at the head, with yellow yarn):
Rnd 1: MC with 5sc (5)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (10)
Rnd 3: 1sc in each st (10)
Switch to black yarn; do not snip your yellow yarn. You will begin working with yellow again in two rounds so simply hold it out of the way; you do not need to carry the yellow with the black. If you’re adding safety eyes, you can add them now or after completing the bee (see instructions below).
Rnd 4-5: 1sc in each st (10)
Switch to yellow yarn.
Rnd 6-7: 1sc in each st (10)
Tie your black yarn tails together & hide them in the bee.
Begin stuffing your bee. You can use a stuffing stick to add more & nicely shape the bee’s backside once you’ve completed round 8.
Rnd 8: 2tog x 5 (5)
Snip your yarn, pull it free, & finish stuffing your bee. Thread your yarn tail and weave it through the front loops of the 5 remaining stitches, then pull to close. Weave your yarn back & forth to secure; use your yarn tail to tidy the back if necessary.
Wings (with white yarn):
To crochet the first wing, insert your hook sideways between rounds 4 & 5; your hook should be pointing away from the bee (see photos). Pull your white yarn through the stitch space, ch1, then puff (see pattern notes).
Create a second wing by inserting your hook between rounds 4 & 5, two stitches away from the first wing; your hook should be pointing away from the bee (see photos). Pull your white yarn through the stitch space, ch1, then puff.
Secure the wings by bringing your yarn tails through the center base of each wing and out of the same stitch hole on the bottom of the bee, two yarn tails per stitch. Tie the tails together, then snip the excess and hide the remaining yarn in the body.
Antennae (with black crochet thread):
To add the antennae, cut a length of black crochet thread or light weight yarn. Beginning at the top of the bee, pull your thread through the stitch hole between rounds 2 & 3, just at the inside edge of the wing (see photos). Bring your thread down and out through a black stitch hole on the bottom of the bee and weave it back and forth a few times to secure, then bring it back up through the head two stitches over, also between rounds 2 & 3. Trim your antennae to size.
Finishing Your Bee
Adding eyes & a smile (optional):
To create eyes, you can use safety eyes, a French knot, or a small length of black yarn. Add the eyes between rounds 1 & 2 (see photos).
To create a smile, cut a length of black crochet thread or light weight yarn. Beginning at the bottom of the bee, bring your yarn up through a stitch hole between rounds 1 & 2, across the length that you would like for the mouth, and through the next stitch hole, finishing in the same space as your first tail. Tie both tails together, snip the excess, and hide the remainder in the body of the bee.
Click here to download the free PDF for this little bee.
Gently finger block your bee into shape.
Click here for all of my free crochet patterns.
And now you’re done! I hope you enjoy this bear with a honeypot & if you post pictures, please hashtag #laurajaworski & tag me @bugburrypond so I can see & share your work! You can find me @bugburrypond on Instagram, Facebook, & Pinterest.
If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact me.
Happy crocheting and have a beautiful day 💕
Laura
The Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern PDF here.
The Honeypot Free Crochet Pattern PDF here.
The Little Bee Free Crochet Pattern PDF here.
Please do not post this pattern on another site without written permission.
If you share this pattern, please credit appropriately and link back to the original post.
You may sell completed items made using my free crochet patterns provided you credit me as the designer and provide a link to my website wherever the items are sold. Alteration of my crochet patterns is strictly prohibited.
Copyright © 2023 Laura Jaworski,
Bear With a Honeypot Free Crochet Pattern.
All Rights Reserved.
"Inhale possibility, exhale creativity." ~ Laura Jaworski
