The Pine Tree Cottage Free Crochet Pattern by Laura Jaworski (@bugburrypond) 🌲

This pine tree cottage stands approximately 10 inches tall and is suitable for all crocheters. I hope you enjoy this pattern, and if you post pictures, please hashtag #laurajaworski so I can share your creations.


Happy crocheting & happy cold-weather season!

The Pine Tree Cottage Free Crochet Pattern PDF:


The Pine Tree Cottage Free Crochet Pattern PDF by Laura Jaworski
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Download • 1.27MB

Skill Level: Easy


Size:


This cottage stands approximately 10 inches tall when made with a size 4 hook and worsted weight yarn.


Supplies:


Worsted weight yarn (green, brown, yellow, white, red)

4.0 mm hook

Needle for sewing

Polyester or other stuffing

Stitch marker, safety pin, or small piece of yarn to count rounds

Scissors

Glue (optional)

Cardstock or other heavy paper (optional but recommended)

Cardboard (optional)


Abbreviations:


MC = Magic circle

St = Stitch

Sc = Single crochet stitch (double crochet stitch in UK & Australia)

Ss = Slip stitch

Puff = Puff stitch

Rep = Repeat

Inc = Increase

Ch1 = Chain one

BLO = Back loop only

FLO = Front loop only

F/o = Finish off


A note about the magic circle:


Also known as a magic loop or magic ring. If you prefer not to use a magic circle, simply create a slip knot, chain two, and begin by placing your first round of stitches into the first chain. Pull tight on your tail to close the gap and continue with the pattern as written. Once you have worked a few more rows, weave your yarn tail back and forth on the underside to secure your piece and close any remaining gap.


A note about working in a spiral vs. joined rounds:


The base of this cottage is worked in a spiral which means that each round continues into the next without a slip stitch and chain. The sides of the cottage are worked in joined rounds which means that each round begins with a slip stitch and chain 1 in the first stitch, followed by your first single crochet in the same stitch.


A note about counting stitches: Using a stitch marker, safety pin, or small piece of yarn to mark the first stitch of each round will help you track your progress. Move the marker as you complete each round. A note about BLO & FLO:


For the back loop only round, you will work all of your stitches into the back loop of each stitch. For the front loop only round, you will work all of your stitches into the front loop of each stitch. For all other rounds, work into both loops of each stitch.


A note about gauge:


The size of your cottage will be determined by a number of factors; your hook, the yarn you’ve chosen, and even how tightly or loosely you crochet can significantly change the size of your work.


A note about reading the pattern:


Before beginning a pattern, it helps to read through the abbreviations list. If you need help with a technique, refer to a written or video tutorial, or keep a crochet book handy. Below is a round from the pattern, followed by a detailed description of the instructions.


Rnd 4: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)


Beginning round four, add one single crochet into each of the next two stitches. Add two single crochet stitches in the following stitch. Repeat the pattern of one single crochet in each of the next two stitches followed by an increase until you reach the end of round four. There should be 24 stitches in your completed round.


A note about the puff stitch:


To crochet the puff stitch for this pattern, yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch space, yarn over, pull up a loop, *yarn over, insert hook in same stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop* 2 times (7 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all loops on hook. Complete each puff stitch with a chain 1. Note: if you would like a puffier snowdrift, add an additional *yarn over, insert hook in same stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop* (for a total of 9 loops on hook) before you complete the stitch.


A note about the invisible finish technique:


For the invisible finish technique, complete the last stitch of your pattern. Snip your yarn, leaving a tail long enough for sewing. Pull the loop on your hook, drawing the snipped yarn tail free. Next, thread the yarn tail onto your needle and bring it through both loops of the stitch following the next stitch. Bring your yarn tail through the back loop of the last stitch of your final round, pulling until you’ve created a v that is comparable in size to the rest of your stitches. Weave your yarn tail on the backside of your piece to secure.

Now let’s get started!

Pine Tree Cottage Roof (beginning at the top, with green yarn):


Rnd 1: MC with 3sc (3)

Rnd 2: 2sc then 2sc in the next st (4)

Rnd 3: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (6)

Rnd 4: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (9)

Rnd 5: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (12)

Rnd 6: 1sc in each st (12)

Rnd 7: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)

Rnd 8: 1sc in each st (18)

Rnd 9: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)

Rnd 10: 1sc in each st (24)

Rnd 11: 3sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (30)

Rnd 12: 1sc in each st (30)

Rnd 13: 4sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (36)

Rnd 14: 1sc in each st (36)

Rnd 15: 5sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (42)

Rnd 16: 1sc in each st (42)

Rnd 17: 6sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (48)

Rnd 18: 1sc in each st (48)

Rnd 19: 7sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (54)

Rnd 20: 1sc in each st (54)

Rnd 21: 8sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (60)

Rnd 22: 1sc in each st (60)

Rnd 23: 9sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (66)

Rnd 24: 1sc in each st (66)

Rnd 25: 10sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (72)

Rnd 26: 1sc in each st (72)

Rnd 27: 11sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (78)

Rnd 28-29: 1sc in each st for two rounds (78)

Rnd 30: BLO 11sc then 2tog, rep (72)

Rnd 31: 10sc then 2tog, rep (66)

Snip your yarn and f/o using the invisible finish technique described in the notes.

Rnd 32: Attach your green yarn to the first FLO stitch of rnd 30. *Ch4, ss into the next stitch* until you’ve reached the end of the round. Ss into the first stitch of the same round and f/o. Snip your yarn, using it to tidy up the join if necessary, then bring it to the back of your piece and weave in your yarn tail, being careful not to warp the shape of your tree. (Note: you can ch3 instead of ch4 if you would like a slightly smaller fringe.)


Pine Tree Cottage Base (beginning at the bottom center, with brown yarn):


Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)

Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)

Rnd 3: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)

Rnd 4: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)

Rnd 5: 3sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (30)

Rnd 6: 4sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (36)

Rnd 7: 5sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (42)

Rnd 8: 6sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (48)

Rnd 9: 7sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (54)

Rnd 10: 8sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (60)

Rnd 11: 9sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (66)

Snip your yarn and f/o using the invisible finish technique described in the notes. You should have 66 stitches.

Rnd 12: BLO Attach your brown yarn to the back loop of the first st of rnd 11 and ch1, sc in the same stitch, then sc in each st around (66)

Rnd 13-22: *ss & ch1 in the first st, 1sc in each st (including the stitch with the ss & ch1)* for 10 rounds (66)

Snip your yarn and f/o, leaving an extra long tail for sewing. You will use this tail to sew the base of your cottage to the roof.


Door (beginning at the bottom, with red yarn):


Row 1: Ch 5, sc in the back bump of the second ch from hook, sc to end of row (4)

Row 2-5: *Ch1 & turn your work, sc in each st* for 4 rows (4)

Row 6: Ch1 & turn your work, sc, 2tog, sc (3)

Snip your yarn and f/o; weave your yarn tails in the back of your door.

Row 7: You will now work a row of sc around the sides and top of your door. Attach your red yarn to the bottom right corner of your door and ch1. Sc in the same space, then continue to sc around the door as follows:


Right side, working from bottom to top: 4sc (5sc)

Top row: 2sc in next st, 1sc, 2sc in next st (5sc)

Left side, working from top to bottom: 5sc (15sc total)


F/o once you reach the bottom left corner; do not work along the bottom row. (Note: as there are no workable stitches on the sides of your door, add your stitches wherever you can comfortably fit your hook.)

Row 8: Attach your brown yarn to the first stitch of row 7 and ch1. Sc in the same space, then continue to sc around the door as follows:


Right side, working from bottom to top: 4sc

Top row: 2sc in next st, 3sc, 2sc in next st (7sc)

Left side, working from top to bottom: 5sc (17sc total)


Row 9: Ch1 & turn your work. FLO sc in each st from the previous row.

Row 10: Ch1 & turn your work. Ss in each st from the previous row.

F/o and weave your yarn tails in the back of your door.

Adding a doorknob:


To add your doorknob, carefully hot glue a bead or small wooden cutout to the door. You can also create a doorknob with yarn by wrapping your yarn of choice from the back to front until you’ve reached your desired shape & size. Weave your yarn in the back to secure.


Front Stoop (with brown yarn):


Row 1: Ch 7, sc in the back bump of the second chain from hook, sc to end of row (6)

Row 2: Ch1 & turn your work, ss in each st across (6)

F/o and leave a long tail for sewing.

Windows (with white or beige yarn, make two):


Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)

Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)

Rnd 3: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)

Snip your yarn and f/o using the invisible finish technique described in the notes. You should have 18 stitches.

Rnd 4: Attach your brown yarn to any stitch and ch1, 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (Note: your first sc will be in the same stitch as your ch1) (24)

Rnd 5: FLO ss & ch1 in the front loop of the first st, sc in the same stitch, then sc in each st around (24)

Snip your yarn and f/o using the invisible finish technique described in the notes. Weave your yarn tail in the back of your piece.


Snowdrift (with white yarn):


The snowdrift is worked in multiples of 3 (3, 6, 9, etc.) + 1 additional chain. You can make a small snowdrift for each side of the door, a few to place around the cottage, or one long piece that wraps from one side of the door to the other.


For the small snowdrift (worked into the back bumps of the chain):


Row 1: Ch4, ss in the back bump of the second ch from hook, puff (see pattern notes), ss (3)

F/o & leave a long tail for sewing. If you plan to hot glue your snowdrift to your cottage, weave your yarn tails in the back of your piece.


For a longer snowdrift:


Chain your desired length in multiples of 3 + 1 additional chain. If you are making a piece that wraps around your cottage and your chain will be either a little too long or a little too short, make the chain shorter as your finished piece will stretch. Next, continue with the above pattern: *ss in the back bump of the second ch from your hook, puff, ss* repeated to the end of your chain. F/o & leave a long tail for sewing. If you plan to hot glue your snowdrift to your cottage, weave your yarn tails in the back of your piece.


Attaching Your Door:


Line your front stoop up with the bottom of your door so that the row of slip stitches faces outward. Using your brown yarn tails, sew the sides of your stoop to the bottom sides of your door, then bring one yarn tail to the back and sew across, catching the BLO of the bottom row of door stitches. Weave in your yarn tails to secure.


Embroidering Your Windows:


Adding the candlestick (with brown yarn):


The candlestick is embroidered on the bottom left section of the window. Starting at the back of your window, bring your yarn to the front/bottom/left side of the window and then up just past midway. (The horizontal window bar will cross at the top of your candlestick with the flame right above it.) Bring your yarn to the back, then weave in your yarn tails before continuing, being careful not to warp the shape of your window.

Adding the candle flame (with yellow yarn):


The candle flame is embroidered at the top of the candlestick, just above where you will later add the horizontal window bar. Starting at the back of your window, bring your yarn to the front just at the top of your candlestick. Bring your yarn up to your desired length for the flame then to the back. Repeat this process 3-4 times, coming out around the top of your candlestick and looping up to the top of the flame. Weave in your yarn tails before continuing, being careful not to warp the shape of your window.

Adding the candleholder (with red yarn):


The candleholder is embroidered at the bottom of the candlestick. Starting at the back of your window, bring your yarn to the front/bottom/left of your candlestick, across the base of your candlestick, then to the back. Repeat this process again. Next, starting at the back of your window, bring your yarn just above the right of your candleholder and down to its base. Bring your yarn to the back and weave in your yarn tails, being careful not to warp the shape of your window.

Adding the window cross (with brown yarn):


The window bars should divide your window into four equal sections. Starting at the back/bottom/middle of your window, bring your yarn to the front, then up to the top center. Next, bring your yarn to the back of your window and cross it to the left center. Create the horizontal line across the middle of your window, just under the candle flame, then weave your yarn tails in the back of the window.

Putting It All Together:


First, cut a round piece of cardboard or a few pieces of cardstock to the size of the bottom of your cottage (rounds 1-11). Fit this into the base snuggly; this will help your cottage sit flat. Next, cut a few pieces of cardstock or heavy paper to wrap around the interior walls of your cottage (rounds 12-22). These steps are optional but will help keep the shape of your cottage when stuffing.


Sewing the roof of your cottage to the base:


Line up the roof of your cottage with the base. You should have 66 stitches on each piece. Bring your brown yarn through the back loop of your base and then through the back loop of the corresponding stitch of the roof. Work your way around in this manner until you have just enough space to begin stuffing your cottage. Carefully stuff your cottage, continuing to stuff and shape as you go. Make sure not to overstuff as it will warp the triangular tree shape. Stuff very lightly around the overhang. When you have reached the last stitch, f/o & hide your yarn tail. Note: if you find it difficult to sew through the back loop of your roof, you can sew through the front loop instead.


Adding your door & windows to the cottage:


Line your door up so that the bottom sits flush with the bottom of your base. Line your windows up so that they are 2-3 stitches away from the door, and just under the fringe of your roof. Stitch or carefully hot glue your door & windows to the cottage.


Adding the snowdrifts:


Stitch or carefully hot glue your snowdrifts so that they are flush with the bottom of your cottage.


Gently shape your cottage; finger block the tree fringe so it hangs nicely.


Decorating Your Cottage:


You can decorate your cottage any way you like! Try adding beads for decorations and a crocheted chain as garland. Miniature lights, surface-crocheted puff stitches, or handmade decorations would all be lovely.

And now you’re done! I hope you enjoy this pine tree cottage & if you post pictures, please hashtag #laurajaworski so I can share your work! You can find me @bugburrypond on Instagram, Facebook, & Pinterest.


If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.


Happy crocheting and have a beautiful day. 💕


Laura



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