The Little Star Free Crochet Pattern by Laura Jaworski (@bugburrypond) ⭐

This character from my children’s book, The Little Star, is suitable for all crocheters. I hope you enjoy this pattern, and if you post pictures, please hashtag #laurajaworski so I can share your creations.


Click here to purchase a copy of The Little Star.


This crochet pattern is based on original illustrations by Jess Cally.

Happy crocheting & happy reading!

The Little Star Free Crochet Pattern PDF:

The Little Star Free Crochet Pattern PDF by Laura Jaworski
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Download • 1.17MB

Skill Level: Easy


Size:


This star stands approximately 8 inches tall when made with a size 4 hook and worsted weight yarn.


Supplies:


Worsted weight yarn (yellow, white, blue, burgundy)

Light weight yarn or crochet thread (burgundy or black)

4.0 mm hook

Needle for sewing

Polyester or other stuffing

Stitch marker, safety pin, or small piece of yarn to count rounds

Scissors

Glue (optional)


Abbreviations:


MC = Magic circle

St = Stitch

Sc = Single crochet (double crochet stitch in UK & Australia)

Ss = Slip stitch

Rep = Repeat

Inc = Increase

2tog = Crochet two together, also known as decrease (preferably using the invisible decrease method)

Ch1 = Chain one

F/o = Finish off

RS = Right side

WS = Wrong side


A note about the magic circle:


Also known as a magic loop or magic ring. If you prefer not to use a magic circle, simply create a slip knot, chain two, and begin by placing your first round of stitches into the first chain. Pull tight on your tail to close the gap and continue with the pattern as written. Once you have worked a few more rounds, weave your yarn tail back and forth on the underside to secure your piece and close any remaining gap.


A note about working in a spiral:


The main body of this little star is worked in a spiral which means that each round continues into the next without a slip stitch and chain.


A note about counting stitches:

Using a stitch marker, safety pin, or small piece of yarn to mark the first stitch of each spiral round will help you track your progress. Move the marker as you complete each round.

A note about increasing and decreasing:


For an increase, crochet two stitches in the same stitch. For a decrease, crochet two stitches together, preferably using the invisible decrease method.


A note about reading the pattern:


Before beginning a pattern, it helps to read through the abbreviations list. If you need help with a technique, refer to a written or video tutorial, or keep a crochet book handy. Below is a round from the pattern, followed by a detailed description of the instructions.


Rnd 4: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)


Beginning round four, add one single crochet into each of the next two stitches. Add two single crochet stitches in the following stitch. Repeat the pattern of one single crochet in each of the next two stitches followed by an increase until you reach the end of round four. There should be 24 stitches in your completed round.


A note about the invisible finish technique:


For the invisible finish technique, complete the last stitch of your pattern. Snip your yarn, leaving a tail long enough for sewing. Pull the loop on your hook, drawing the snipped yarn tail free. Next, thread the yarn tail onto your needle; skip the next stitch and bring your yarn tail through both loops of the following stitch. Bring your yarn tail through the back loop of the last stitch of your final crochet round, pulling until you’ve created a v that is comparable in size to the rest of your stitches. Weave your yarn tail on the backside of your piece to secure.

Now let’s get started!

Star (with yellow yarn, make two):


Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)

Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)

Rnd 3: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)

Rnd 4: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)

Rnd 5: 3sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (30)

Rnd 6: 4sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (36)

Rnd 7: 5sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (42)

Rnd 8: 6sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (48)

Rnd 9: 7sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (54)

Rnd 10: 8sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (60)

Rnd 11: 9sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (66)

Rnd 12: 21sc, 2sc in the next st, 10sc, 2sc in the next st, 21sc, 2sc in the next st, 10sc, 2sc in the next st (70)

Snip your yarn & f/o using the invisible finish technique. You should have 70 workable stitches.

For the first star point:


Row 1: Attach your yellow yarn to the last stitch of your piece using a ch1 & sc in the same space. Sc13 across (14)

Row 2: ch1 & turn, 2tog, 10sc, 2tog (12)

Row 3: ch1 & turn, 2tog, 8sc, 2tog (10)

Row 4: ch1 & turn, 2tog, 6sc, 2tog (8)

Row 5: ch1 & turn, 2tog, 4sc, 2tog (6)

Row 6: ch1 & turn, 2tog, 2sc, 2tog (4)

Row 7: ch1 & turn, 2tog x 2 (2)

Row 8: ch1 & turn, 2tog (1)

F/o, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Begin your second star point on the next stitch over (continuing along the main body of your star, immediately following the first point). Follow the same pattern for each star point; you should have five in total. When you have completed your star points, weave your yarn tails on the back of your piece to cover any gaps so that your stuffing will not show through. Make sure to weave loosely so that you do not warp the shape of your star; do not weave along the edges.


Adding the border to your star:


For the border you will be working around the rough edges of the star.


Attach the yellow yarn in between star points using a ch1 & sc in the same space. 7sc along the right edge of your first star point. 3sc in the top of your star point, then 7sc down the left edge. Continue this pattern of 1sc in between star points, 7sc along the right edge, 3sc in the tip of the star point, and 7sc along the left edge until you have worked your way around the star. F/o using the invisible finish technique. You should have a total of 90 stitches in your border.

Attaching your star pieces:


Line your two stars up so that the RS of each piece is facing outward, and the WS (the side that you’ve woven your yarn tails into) of each piece is pressed together. You may find it helpful to hold the pieces together with stitch markers to keep your stitches lined up as you sew. Next, cut a length of yellow yarn, making sure that it’s long enough to sew your two pieces together. Carefully whip stitch your pieces together until only two star point edges remain open. Begin stuffing your star; take your time and add the stuffing slowly until you’re happy with the shape. Continue whip stitching & stuffing as you close, then knot the yarn and/or weave in well to secure.

Eyes (with white yarn, make two):


Row 1: ch4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc2 (3)

Row 2: ch1 & turn, sc, 2sc in the next st, sc (4)

Row 3: ch1 & turn, sc, 2sc in the next st, 2sc (5)

Row 4: ch1 & turn, 2sc, 2sc in the next st, 2sc (6)

Row 5: ch1 & turn, 2sc, 2tog, 2sc (5)

Row 6: ch1 & turn, sc, 2tog, 2sc (4)

Row 7: ch1 & turn, sc, 2tog, sc (3)

Do not snip your yarn or f/o.


Adding the border to the eyes:


(Note: the border of the eyes will have fewer stitches than a typical crochet border and will not have extra stitches for turning corners.)


At the end of row 7, ch1. Working down the left side of your eye to the bottom left corner: 4sc, 2ss. Working across the bottom of your eye: 3ss. Working up the right side of your eye: 2ss, 4sc. Working across the top of the eye: 3sc. F/o using the invisible finish technique (skipping the ch1 in place of a sc stitch) and leave a long tail for sewing.


Iris (with blue yarn, make two):


Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)

Rnd 2: 2sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, 2ss in the next st, 2ss in the next st, 2sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st (12)

F/o using the invisible finish technique and leave a long tail for sewing.


Finishing the eyes:


Embroider the circle and line onto your iris using white yarn. Next, sew the iris to the white eye piece so that the bottom four ss of the iris line up with the first row of the white eye piece.


(Note: if you prefer making a crocheted piece instead of embroidering, you can MC 4sc with white yarn and hot glue or stitch to the iris.)

Bow (with burgundy):


Center piece:


Rnd 1: MC with 5sc (5)

Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (10)

Rnd 3: 1sc in each st (10)

Rnd 4: 2tog x 5 (5)

Stuff lightly, then snip your yarn & weave your tail around the five remaining stitches. Pull to close & knot or weave to secure.


Side pieces (make two):


Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)

Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)

Rnd 3-4: 1sc in each st (12)

Rnd 5: 2tog x 6 (6)

F/o, leaving a long tail for sewing.


Finishing the bow:


Attach the side pieces on each side of the center piece using your yarn tails. Knot or weave your yarn on the back of your bow to secure.


Cheek color (with burgundy, make two):


Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)

F/o using the invisible finish technique and leave a long tail for sewing.


Finishing your star:


Stitch your eyes to the star so that the bottom rows are even with and two stitches away from the center of your star. Stitch or hot glue your cheek circles on round 7, one stitch beneath the eyes. Using light weight yarn, add your eyebrows one round above each eye. Using light weight yarn, add your nose on round two, angled below your center circle; add the mouth across round 9, slightly to the left of the center. Stitch or hot glue the bow between the top left points of your star.

And now you’re done! I hope you enjoy this little star & if you post pictures, please hashtag #laurajaworski or send me a message so I can share your work! You can find me @bugburrypond on Instagram, Facebook, & Pinterest.


Visit www.laurajaworski.com or click here if you would like to purchase a copy of our children’s book, The Little Star.


If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.


Happy crocheting, happy reading, and have a beautiful day.


💕Laura


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This pattern is for personal use only.


Copyright © 2022 Laura Jaworski, The Little Star Free Crochet Pattern.

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